Pearls in Peril: The Back Story of a Necklace
Tuesday, March 3, 2009 at 11:32 AM When the President and First Lady hosted their first black tie dinner at the White House on February 22, Mrs. O wore a statement necklace of pearls and crystals by Tom Binns. We were naturally curious about this bold piece of jewelry, bound to become an icon of Mrs. O’s sophisticated and elegant style. Rarely does anyone mix pearls and faux diamonds together so abundantly, but when it does happen the result tends to be memorable. A case in point: the last famous image of a woman known for wearing a multi strand pearl necklace mixed with diamante was Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
Mrs. O’s necklace comes from a collection by Binns named Pearls in Peril—an intriguing name that sounds a bit like a title from a silent movie melodrama. WWD has reported that the name reflected Binns’ dark take on the world, and we think that is worth exploring. Certainly the pearls in this necklace are in peril of losing their traditional ladylike status. Stacked up like loops of Mardi Gras beads, the light-reflecting pearls are exuberant and playful. Then there is an inner ring of Swarovski crystals stuck between the ropes of pearls.
That necklace-within-the-necklace lays out the crystals in a flat square design, somewhat reminiscent of necklaces worn by the British royal family. The flat square design of the glittery crystal necklace contrasts nicely with the softly lustrous pearls—here are circles and squares that really do fit together. To finish the look, Binns tosses in one more upheaval of expectations by adding a brooch-sized clasp that hangs low in the front instead of high in the back.
The result: these are clearly are not your grandmother’s pearls—this is a 21st century interpretation of two traditional pieces jewelry, now beautifully melded together in one glamorous statement Yet beyond aesthetics, Binns appears to have been thinking of a genuine eco-crisis when he named the collection Pearls in Peril. Beginning in 1996, a mysterious disease started affecting Japan’s oysters and threatening that country’s cultured pearl supplies. So far, no definitive cause for the disease has been found, although pollutants, changes in the eco-system, or a virus have been suspected. The effects of this disease have been devastating: Although Japan has long been considered the standard bearer for cultured pearls, today only approximately 20 percent of that country’s pearl harvest is now viable for jewelry. In the last two years, over half of established pearl farmers in Japan have been forced out of business and the future for that country’s pearl industry is uncertain.
There is much about crisis and life on the edge that seems to attract Binns. Currently he is busy setting up his new boutique on Perry Street in New York City, a daring venture given the current state of economy. Yet Binns remains confident that the times are right for his tiny avant garde boutique. The jewel box of a space will remain an understated shell in so that his new creations can hold center stage. Also available for sale at this store will be some archival pieces of Binns’ work. Does he have fears about starting such a business adventure given present day economics? “It might be rather bumpy at the moment,” he said in a recent interview with Interview. “But it’s always a battle. Bring it on.”
Reader Comments (10)
To me that gorgeous necklace -- though rendered in pearls and crystals -- had the shape of African collar necklaces that are made up of many ropes of beads. She looked fantastic in it.
Mrs. T.---Can you find out if this necklace was custom made for Mrs. Obama? Or, if it is available somewhere--and what it would cost? Is there a website where we can see a necklace by Binns like this one? I've looked a bit--but didn't find it.
I'd love to get a closer look at her necklace. I make beaded jewelry, and I'd love to make my own version!
Here's a Tom Binns piece for sale with the same feeling:
http://www.net-a-porter.com/product/39650
I'm sure Mrs. O wearing his necklace will help publicity for his New York venture. Its great to see her helping young and struggling artists and designers, especially in this economic climate. Although I'm sure she probably just chooses pieces because she loves them.
I have always loved Breakfast at Tiffany's and I adore Mrs. O, so its nice to know they have this 'glittering' connection.
Mrs. T, I've been going through "blog withdrawal" while traveling, but happily return to find not one, but TWO articles about Mrs. O's jewelry! Thank you for all the updates!!
Susan, also see Tom Binns' website, which has similar necklaces under the 'Couture' collection. In terms of price, you're probably looking at $3K+ for this type of piece.
http://www.tombinnsdesign.com/
Brilliant post Mrs C - thank you.
Mr Binns processes an informed, intelligent and playful talent.
I love the chic chaos of many of his designs.
I look forward to checking out his shop the next time I am in NYC.
"Its great to see her helping young and struggling artists and designers . . ."
True, though that's not really an accurate description of Binns, who's been doing this for more than a quarter of a century! The shop in New York may be new, but he's not.
When using the term 'struggling' I was referring to designers in general- they are all finding things tougher business wise in today's world.
I was thinking more of Jason Wu and Thakoon when I wrote 'young' although Tom Binns has certainly maintained his youthful glow over the years!
I think michele obama's dress on the cover of people magazine is unbelievably inappropriate for a first lady. She looks more like she is posing for Playboy magazine or Victoria's Secret. I am appaled that some think she is fashion icon. Does she think she is a hollywood star?