Musings: Influences on Jason Wu
Tuesday, February 24, 2009 at 2:41 PM When Jason Wu, in a recent interview about his 2009 Spring Collection, cited two influences for his current work, our interest was piqued. After all, even the most successful designers repeatedly turn to many different sources to find fresh inspiration for their work. These muses serve as a springboard for the designers’ creativity. So we couldn’t help but be curious about Wu’s stated influences: illustrator Arthur Rackham and designer Norman Norell.
It is a fascinating revelation, both for the glimpse it offers of the designers behind the designer and because Rackham and Norell are so strikingly different in their styles. Born in London, Arthur Rackham (1867-1939) was an Edwardian era illustrator whose primary work was on children’s books. His most illustrations were for Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens, The Wind in the Willows, and Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.
By 1900, Rackham was the most sought-after illustrator of his time. His storybook style, with flowing movement and bits of whimsy, is a definitively romantic look. Today his Alice looks surprisingly modern in her black tights and a floral shirtwaist dress. So it is easy to see how Rackham’s drawings—with their emphasis on girlish heroines—have inspired Wu. At first glance, though, the connection between Wu and Norman Norell (1900-1972) appears more challenging.
Born in Indiana as Norman David Levinson, Norell started his career by designing clothes for silent screen actresses, for Broadway shows, or at Harlem’s famous Cotton Club. In each of those venues, the clothes had to project to an audience—that is, their lines needed to be understood from a distance. Norell then worked for the company Hattie Carnegie, where he adapted French designs for the American market. Prices for his clothes rivaled those of the French originals, but his superb craftsmanship was considered worth the money.
In the 1940s, Norell departed from the established flared day dresses of the time to create wool jersey shirtwaist dresses—his designs established a natural waist and a softer silhouette. By 1968, he was showing streamlined clothes, their minimalist lines often emphasized with one important detail like a leather belt worn over a cloth jacket or a coat. He loved round plain necklines and emphatic short sleeves; he often showed evening wear details, like paillettes, on simple daytime sweaters. Today Norell’s clothes can be found in numerous museums, including the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum and the Smithsonian.
Simple lines combined with unexpected detailing, minimalist shapes accented with dramatic materials—understanding Norell this makes it easy to see how Wu was inspired by him. But combining both the romantic and minimalist in one cohesive, fashionable style—that is the particular fashion genius of Jason Wu.
Designers
Reader Comments (5)
Great post Mrs C - I think this information illustrates the diverse and eclectic influences that reference the best designers work.
The finished frocks / ensembles one sees on the runway, or ultimately being worn by 'real women', are created w/ so much more than beautiful physical fabrics and embellishments.
They are also born from fertile imaginations whose inspirations are culled from the deep well of the subjective and sublime.
The best designers have an insatiable intellectual curiosity of the world around them as well as a respect and awareness of the historical connections between themselves and fashion history.
Thanks for this educational post. I am liking the inagural gown more each moment. Maybe my view of Mrs O as public art is not so offbase afterall.
(posted while wearing new clear pink gloss)
Looking forward to the President and First Lady tonight. Here is the guest list for Mrs. Obama's seating area:
Dr. Jill Biden
Leonard Abess Jr., CEO, City National Bank of Florida (Miami, FL)
Ty'Sheoma Bethea, Student (Dillon, SC)
Elizabeth Carballo, Student (Washington, DC)
Richard G. DeCoatsworth, Police Officer (Philadelphia, PA)
Earl Devaney, Chair, Recovery Act Transparency and Accountability Board
Mayor Bob Dixson (Greensburg, KS)
Governor Jim Douglas (Montpelier, VT)
Mary Henley (Richmond, VA)
SPC Jonathon N. James, US Army (Mountain View, AR)
Valerie B. Jarrett, Senior Advisor and Assistant to the President for Intergovernmental Affairs and Public Liaison
Blake Jones, Co-Founder and President, Namaste Solar (Boulder, CO)
Shannon Kendall (Georgetown, TX)
Victoria Kirby, Student (Washington, DC)
Geneva Lawson, Safe-Deposit Custodian, City National Bank of Florida (Miami, FL)
Lilly Ledbetter (Jacksonville, AL)
General Alfonso E. Lenhardt, US Army (Washington, DC)
Roxanna Garcia Marcus, Development Manager, Year Up (Washington, DC)
Abbey Meacham, Firefighter (Forest, VA)
Akrem Muzemil, Student (Washington, DC)
Sergeant John E. Rice, USMC (Bethesda, MD)
Juan Francisco Rodriguez, Student, Bell Multicultural High School (Washington, DC)
Phil Schiliro, Assistant to the President for Legislative Affairs
Alvaro Simmons, Chief Operating Officer, Mary's Center (Washington, DC)
Governor Ted Strickland (Columbus, OH)
Talk about the First Lady as fashion "muse" Check out the latest from Oscar! Looks like someone raided Mrs. O's stylist's closet!
I would like to see her cross over and pick up a few of these styles. They truly look like they were sewn on her personal mannequin form...
http://www.oscardelarenta.com/?folderId=/collections/readytowear/Fall2009
cover up those arms, please!