What Mamie Wore
Thursday, December 11, 2008 at 12:52 AM 
Photo courtesy of the Truman Library
As the excited speculation builds over Mrs. O’s Inaugural Ball gown, we continue with our historical tour of past First Ladies and their Inaugural costumes.
On January 20, 1953, Mamie Doud Eisenhower, the 34th First Lady, created a fashion sensation with her decidedly pretty-in-pink presence at the Inaugural Ball. Designed by Nettie Rosenstein of New York City, whose work can be seen in the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum, Mrs. Eisenhower's gown was made of pink peau de soie and lavishly encrusted with 2,000 pink rhinestones. It featured an off-the-shoulder neckline and the deep V of the bodice ended in a Renaissance waist. The skirt of the gown was full and flowed out from the fitted waistline. Mrs. Eisenhower wore a three-strand pearl choker she had commissioned from Trifari, maker of some of the finest costume jewelry of the time. Matching pink opera gloves completed the look.
Mrs. Eisenhower's style was influential during her husband’s two Presidential terms. “Mamie pink” or “First Lady pink” became an iconic color of the 1950s and the fitted bodice and full skirt silhouette Mrs. Eisenhower favored (which was first shown in Dior’s “The New Look” in 1947) was readily adapted in both day dresses and evening wear of that decade. Her costume jewelry choice proved so popular that Trifari filed and won a law suit preventing cheap knock-offs of their designs.
The fashion choices of Mrs. O have already shown great panache and popularity. And like Mamie Eisenhower before her, the fashion industry is taking note. Tellingly, designer Elie Tahari unveiled a new purple sheath named the "the Michelle dress" this past week. Might 2009 be the year of "Michelle purple"? Or better yet, "Mrs. O purple"?
A bonus: In the course of our research, we stumbled upon Milky Way Jewels, a Port Hadlock, WA based vintage jewelry store that offers an impressive selection of authentic Trifari pieces - including this necklace, similar to the pearl choker Mrs. Eisenhower wore.
Reader Comments (11)
It seems fitting that Mamie Eisenhower was a 'style setter' in one of the most boring fashion decades ever.
Evidence of which is indicated in that collection of overwrought and matronly evening gowns in the above photo.
via Bridget:
I love Mamie's gown from 1952. I think your post re Mamie's gown is wonderful. And, I think it is likely that the few women who sewed in to its material all of those 2,000 rhinestones never received any accolades. So here, from all of us who read this blog, I salute those sewers.
Nice story...I think it's funny that the picture looks like they are in a high school gym for the prom!
It is really fun to look at past inaugural gowns. The one Jackie wore in '61 is so simple and beautiful and so very different from Mamie's in '53.
Thanks for the great find of Milky Way Jewels. In the "recent additions" collection there is a white flower brooch that Mrs. O might enjoy. What cool stuff they have on this site! Thanks again.
I have to be the odd one here....the 20s, 40s, and 50s are my all time favorite style eras (and we'll just skip along the 60's and 70s), but this dress does nothing for me!
The prom comparison above is fitting, and im not quite sure you want your inaugural gown to be compared to high school prom!!
Now Jackie O's dress was a knockout!!
but just my opinion
Mrs. O Ladies: LOVE this historical tour of First Ladies' Inaugural Ball fashions as a prelude to Mrs. O's choices. History is such important context and helps us understand how we got where we are today. Your research and related side stories are so interesting and fun. You help us all speak with authority on this subject!
http://www.wwd.com/fashion-blogs/chasing_michelle_obamas_wardro-08-12
love this post
Interesting photo--I wonder who those three gentlemen of color on the right side are.
Love Mamie's pink dress!
I absolutely LOVE that the ladies of mrs-o.org answered my request for historical context of the inaugural gown issue! I must admit I'm less pleased with Mamie's hairstyle, but that's the 50s for you!
The picture resembles a prom.