A New "Shadow Stylist"?
Monday, January 24, 2011 at 8:00 AM When this blog began in 2008, the process of identifying Mrs. Obama's designers was much different than it is now. Now, there are press releases, media blasts and a slew of fashion savvy readers to fill in the gaps. Then, there was the more laborious task of scouring style.com, fueled by the key bit of information that Mrs. Obama shopped loyally at Maria Pinto and Ikram, both in Chicago. As Mrs. Obama turned less to Maria Pinto, Ikram's list of designers became a reliable short list for what Mrs. Obama might wear. The list includes designers like Thakoon, Narciso Rodriguez, Isabel Toledo and Jason Wu –names heard often in the last months of the presidential campaign and Mrs. Obama's first year in the White House.
The relationship between Mrs. Obama and Ikram Goldman has been largely shrouded in secrecy. We do know that it is almost certainly more involved than that of a typical boutique owner and patron. Ms. Goldman has been respectfully quiet on the matter, as has the White House, except to offer: "Mrs. Obama has shopped at Ikram’s store for years and appreciates her shared interest in working with a broad spectrum of designers, including many young and up-and-coming designers."
That quote came from a splashy New York Times piece by Cathy Horyn and Eric Wilson, which did its best to “out” the relationship between Mrs. Obama and Ikram Goldman, and stir up something of a controversy surrounding the style partnership. "Behind the First Lady, a Shadow Stylist," was published in February 2009.
Where some saw tension, others saw a perfect union. Women who have shopped at Ikram will tell you that Ikram Goldman is a master at what she does. They speak of her discerning eye, her ability to mix the unexpected, to know her customers thoroughly. She is said to think of fashion from every angle, imbuing choices with intelligence and message.
Mrs. Obama's style in the White House has often put these characteristics on full display. For the inauguration, an Isabel Toledo ensemble in lemongrass yellow cued sunny optimism in the midst of a dark recession. When the First Lady met Pope Benedict XVI at the Vatican in July 2009, head to toe Moschino was worn, an indication that fashion would be used to honor the culture and heritage of others. Then, in November 2009, Mrs. Obama welcomed Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and his wife Gursharan Kaur to the White House dressed in a handcrafted, sequin gown by Indian-American designer Naeem Khan.
There was a pattern forming. Mrs. Obama’s choices were smart and communicative. The forethought and utmost attention to detail was undeniable. The styling read of Ikram Goldman, even if no formal credit was sought or given. Mrs. Obama's creative use of accessories even signaled the boutique owner’s hallmark touch. Eclectic Tom Binns necklaces were paired with corseted Peter Soronen gowns. Pins were worn, not in a traditional way, but clustered at the collar of dresses.
What follows is not meant to be a criticism, not in the very least, but rather, an observation. From watching the First Lady's style over the past year, it appears that something has changed – and that something, may be Ikram.
Mrs. Obama’s repertoire of designers has expanded drastically in recent months, to include new names such Dries Van Noten, Marc Jacobs, Roksanda Ilincic, and even vintage Norman Norell. A diverse wardrobe is growing more diverse, and fast. Ikram Goldman has been known to source clothing for the First Lady from designers not always carried in her boutique, but Chicago is a fashion market of "exclusives," and it's unlikely that Ms. Goldman would secure pieces from designers carried by her competitors. For example, Blake, another high-end store in Chicago, carries Dries Van Noten and Roksanda Ilincic. These designers are not stocked at Ikram. Which raises the question: if not Ikram, who secured pieces from these designers for the First Lady?
One answer might be Meredith Koop. In April 2010, Politico.com ran a short, unnoticed piece on Mrs. Obama's "secret style weapon." Koop is a 28-year-old White House aide rumored to play a "pivotal role" in the First Lady's style. At this point, little else is known about her position. But why the move away from Ikram? Logistics and location are one possibility. It may simply be more convenient to have someone Washington-based at the helm of Mrs. Obama’s complex wardrobe. Robin Givhan offered another possible hint with this November 2009 tweet: "Ikram in DC 'selling Michelle dresses she can't afford.' so sayeth a source."
This topic may feel irrelevant to some, but in the context of Mrs. Obama’s broader style influence, and her impact on our sartorial social history, it feels worth asking – who's influencing Mrs. O?
The First Lady’s Alexander McQueen gown for the state dinner, designed by McQueen's successor, Sarah Burton, was gorgeous. It offered the high-wattage glamour we've come to know and love in Mrs. Obama's wardrobe, balancing tradition with modernity, strength with femininity. While critics offered praise, one contrarian view came to light. Oscar de la Renta wondered aloud, why, on an occasion meant to foster Chinese-American trade, Mrs. Obama chose to wear "European clothes.”
Mr. de la Renta's track record of commentary aside, it's not an entirely unfair question – not because the choice was right or wrong, but because it broke with Mrs. Obama's precedent. "Unexpected" has been the ubiquitous word used to describe the choice. Perhaps it's merely that, another twist in the First Lady’s ever-evolving, public style – but might it signal something more? Is there new influence on Mrs. Obama's style? Are we seeing less of Ikram’s magic? This blogger would love to know.
Reader Comments (61)
I personally have not seen a change is the way Michelle dresses in the past 3 years, her style has been consistant, which is why I don't believe there is a "new shadow stylist." Also, Michelle does not appear to break away from the people she is familiar with. A WAPO article a few months ago discussed how she has not mingled with D.C. socialites, and that people that her "circle" are the same people she knew before moving to D.C. The journalist of the article criticized Michelle for kind of stayingt o herself.
Also, I am not keen on the gray suit she wore today. However, I love her hair, makeup, and jewelry.
@babs
That looks like a diamond safety pin.
The pin she has used to catch the side of her necklace appears to be a "jewelled" vintage hatpin.
Fashionista first lady?? I don't get this statement at all. I bet the amount of money the previous FL spent on clothes is on par with Michelle, yet because she actually has flair and style she is a fashionista? Noone mentions the amount of work she has done, having a major food bill passed by congress, getting Wal Mart to commit to producing healthier food, not to mention her work with Military families. What bugs me is that ONE LIE distorts the WHOLE truth....That IDIOT Oscar painted Mrs O in the wrong light and that's all people talk about...no one talks about the Young American designers she help launched and the billion dollar stimulus she gave to the fashion industry...just float a vindictive lie and all good is out the window. Mrs O is damned either way!
@kaybeel why the histrionics do you know for a fact that a "white house aide" is now serving as her stylist? Do you think that after 2 years of assault she is that stupid. Mrs.T "wondered" about something and you are doing as if it is fact. Chill
I love the comments and questions raised in this chain and the (mostly) civil discourse. Rory, Dr. Cheryl, meta and others, thank you for your nice comments. I wish I had more answers, but I suppose that's why I wrote the post in the first place - out of curiosity. We will have to wait and see what (if anything) comes to light. I do think the people behind one of the most powerful modern-day style icons in the world are of relevance.
Someone along the way stressed "reality," in that it would be nearly impossible for Mrs. O to manage her wardrobe without the help of others. Consider her schedule, the multiple public and private appearances per week, and the scrutiny. In my mind, it's a given that there's help from someone at the White House -- exactly who, and their broader level of influence, that's what I would love to know!
A stylist for Bo. That killed me. I'll laugh whenever I think of it for days. Jeez! couldn't she do something with his bangs? You never see his eyes....
Hi Mrs. T. - great post. Very insightful and thought provoking.
Regarding Oscar's question about not using a Chinese designer. I agree with Kuentos that since the Chinese asked for an American style state dinner, a Western designer was chosen. However, the color red was included.
As for who pays - I suspect that the lesser price stuff/everyday wear is paid in full. The designer ensembles may come at cost or reduced price. The publicity of being worn by Michelle Obama is worth taking the loss on an item. If more customers are coming to your store/website then it is worth it.
Some of the designers are asked to alter the ensemble. There may be a charge for this service. But again, to get something worn by Michelle Obama makes it worthwhile.
While Nancy Reagan had a flair for fashion, Hillary Clinton didn't. A stylist would have been great for Hillary. Even today - a stylist would be good. Laura Bush - I don't remember her being that active enough to require a really large diverse wardrobe. Laura wanted to be the aniti-Hillary. So keeping a low profile was important. What Reagan, Clinton, and Bush had in common was Oscar de la Renta.
As I noted in an earlier post - President Obama campaigned on turning the page. Michelle is following by bringing in other designers. Good for her.
To assist in sorting through items that may have been unsolicited, finding items for particular events (i.e. state dinners, IN PERFORMANCE AT THE WHITE HOUSE), keeping track of what has been worn - a staffer or two is understandable.
With the level of Michelle Obama's popularity - a stylist on the payroll is not of great importance. The fact that someone has a job - more power to them. Now when the members of the Senate give up their in-house barber/beauty salon staff, then the stylist may have something to worry about.
Thanks again for the great blog.
@ Kaybeel (and other same-minded people)
I don't think Mrs Obama would even dare hire a stylist with tax payers money. I just want t point out that we are talking about the same Obamas who declined tax-funded money for the new furniture and decoration when they moved into the white house, who take on their share of traveling cost for themselves and their guests too, who have repeatedly stated that they pay for their own garments, who nearly have to justify why they breathe!
I think they are aware of the incredible scrutiny they face. Unlike other first families, they don't have the luxury of making mistakes because inconsequential things quickly become huge controversies. So let's give Mrs. O some credit. She's not stupid. They have a pattern of going out of their way to avoid being picked for this kind of thing. There was a point when I *could* understand concerns of misuse of tax payer's money. But now, years down the line? There is enough evidence for everybody to guess how far they would go for this kind of thing.
As black people, we learn that being as good as others is not enough; you have to out-do others to be just to be considered on-par. I feel the Obamas are receiving this kind of treatment constantly. I hate that they go out of their way to ensure they're not attacked for stuff nobody cared to scrutinise past officials for, even for the smallest details.
I'm saying this as one who isn't particularly thrilled about this administration. But I do recognise that on a number of things they are using up a lot of energy to appease their detractors; Since day -1. More than any other president had to do. How many modern day presidents had their citizenship, social background, parental skills, financial, fashion sense questioned to this degree, all at once?
This nation has many problem, I can't believe the above mentioned issues are so high on the list of things they must address to get the nation to trust them! I can't believe the number of concessions they had to make for that. I really wish people would just give them a break and assume that they're not stupid. I may not agree with many of their policies but I certainly don't think they're stupid.
Hello Again!
@pt81 While Nancy Reagan had a flair for fashion, Hillary Clinton didn't. A stylist would have been great for Hillary.
Hilary's situation highlights the difference personal monetary resources make for presidents' families. When the Clintons entered the White House, they had $200,000 in equity and as presidential personal finances go that is "chump change"--almost nothing. By the time the White Water investigation heated up they were two million dollars in debt because of legal fees. I actually worried out loud that we as a nation could experience a coup d'etat through the bankrupting of a president. These are just some of the unacknowledged personal consequences of the partisan politics we have been observing for the better part of the last twenty years. When Michelle Obama publishes her memoirs, I intend to buy ten copies for gifts and to provide her some "payback" for representing our nation so beautifully!
@Lila Thank you for a boatload of clarity and truth! Amen!
@Lila WELL said "fist-bump" to ya'